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July 09 For Fish, A Blazing Frontier: The Chinese DesertBy Will James and Michelle Trauring He Yan Zhong found a better way to raise trout – on the outskirts of the Gobi Desert in China’s arid Midwest. A Shanghai-based entrepreneur and owner of Faitian Green Farm, he’s part of a Chinese solution to a global problem – a fish industry plagued by contamination. The water is the key to He’s prototype trout farm outside Dunhuang. It’s routed from the looming Qilian Mountains – pure glacial water, free of the pollutants found in fish farms across the world. Because of the site’s remote desert location, there’s no risk of the contamination that goes hand-in-hand with industry. The average modern fish farm is a biohazard. The creatures stew in their own waste, vulnerable to deadly fungus and injury due to crowding, requiring heaps of antibiotics pumped into the standing water. The desert site is an experimental shot at a greener alternative. The fish live in lanes of rushing water, filtered by pools of reeds and algae, said Wang Yong Bing, the deputy director. The trout – rainbow and even golden – have room to swim and jump. The mountain water stays below 22 degrees Celsius, the trout’s natural environment. It keeps them lively and lean, whereas other farm fish might just mill and soak. The founding of the site, one of hundreds owned by He, was fueled by demand for greener farms during a recent Chinese food safety crisis. But the idea to route water from the Qilian Mountains in the first place is nothing new. It came from founding revolutionary Zhou Enlai in the 1960s. Before the site was developed, it was just part of the gravelly dunes, according to Yoichi Shimatsu, the project’s development consultant. Now, due to massive irrigation, it’s an oasis, complete with a lush grape farm. The grape farm itself is part of a symbiotic cycle with the fish, Shimatsu said. The filtered waste water from the trout is used to moisten and fertilize the grapes’ soil. Eventually, the dead grape vines will be turned into charcoal, which will be used to filter out salt from the fishes’ habitat. He’s green fish farm has been three years in the making and will be complete in another three, according to Wang. The vision is to someday draw in revenue with ecotourism – vineyard tours and fresh water fishing in the mountains. Wang said the farm will top off production at 70 tons of fish a year. The goal is to spread this revolution to, first, He’s other farms along the Qilian Mountains, and then potentially to the world at large. According to Shimatsu, it could be applied in the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevada Range. Shimatsu plans to sell the fish to markets in Europe and along China’s eastern coast. The fish farm sits at the junction of three deserts along the ancient Silk Road, a robust trading route connecting East and West in centuries past. “We’re re-opening the Silk Road to a new global commerce,” Shimatsu said. “And that’s exactly what works.” Tracing the Bloodline at Magao GrottoesBy Josh Kamins
Snaking through China’s western frontier, three of the country's largest deserts converge at the Magao grottos in Dun Huang— a series of caves washed over by red sand and time.
Inside the grottos, slack-jawed visitors gawk at the 100-foot tall Buddha among other Buddhist relics. Yet with all there is to see here, certain elements of Christian influence appear to be restricted from public view.
Elements out of Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code can be gleaned from the walls of Magao. The novel popularized the role of the Holy Grail legend and Magdalene’s role in the history of Christianity.
"Most of the caves are open only for research and not for public access," said Jessica Tu, a grotto tour guide.
Of the caves bearing substantial reference to Christianity, none were accessible on a recent wind-swept afternoon in early July.
Symbols of fertility, the feminine principle, and repetitions of the number 12, all which are commonly associated with the origins of Christianity, are depicted in the grottoes, but not available to the public. Some of the caves show evidence of Gnostic influence.
This one-sided playing-up of the Buddhist symbols has fueled the controversy that dogged Silk Road scholarship for at least a century.
Unseen caves display controversial images pertaining to the inspiration from Gnostics on the Silk Road. Apsaras - nude female goddess figures that exemplify the feminine principle - surround a fish, or Ichthys, a symbol of Christ. The duck is an icon of the Holy Spirit as seen in cave number 257.
The sunken panel in cave number 407 depicts three rabbits, a metaphor for fertility and the resurrection of Christ - their ears create a triangle representative of the male principle - converging into a triangle pointing to the heavens. A bloodline of grape vines runs throughout the sunken mural in cave 209, along with latent images of Satanic Crosses - the alchemic symbol for sulfur.
Other clues such as repetition of the number 12, the Fleur de Lis - a symbol of Mary Magdalene, chalices, babies emerging from lotus flowers, and even the Lotus flower itself is emblematic of Mary’s womb; these are all Christian symbols. The bloodline of grapevines in cave 209 culminates with more Ichtys flanking a central cross.
Uighurs, a modern Muslim ethnic minority in China, were Gnostics before they converted - an early branch of Christianity whose influence stretched from the near east along the Silk Road into China and into the west as far as the Albegencien sect in France. They were a major presence on the Silk Road.
The Gnostics believed that Earthly existence was a prison and their souls would be released to the metaphysical world with the onset of an apocalypse. Gnostics were also fervent practitioners of alchemy. Dun Huang was home to an apocalyptic form of Buddhism centering on the Buddha of the future, their cosmic pessimism stemming from anti-Buddhist warfare by the Huns, animist Tibetans and, later, the Islamic Arabs.
As a savior figure, the Maitreya Buddha, or future Buddha, played a role comparable to the Messiah in the Judeo-Christian tradition. The Gnostics were later suppressed in a crusade sanctioned by the Vatican. A Mystery Unearthed, As Tourists Look OnBy Brittany Wait and Jason Van Hoven
People from all over the world visit Xi’an in China's Shaanxi province to witness life-sized, ancient soldiers at the Museum of Qin Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses. Each beige-colored, armor-clad warrior flaunts various intricate facial expressions and features. They range in height from six feet to six-foot five-inches. "China is amazed at how smart they were and this is a symbol of national pride," says Li Xue, 23, a student at Tsinghua University in Beijing. Courtney Barnett, 34, of Louisiana was on a trip to the museum with her family during a two-week visit to the province. Barnett adopted a two-year-old girl with her husband and says she wanted to take her to see this part of China’s history. "We were in awe as soon as we saw the statues," she says, looking into pit one in the first room that she visited. This pit, the largest of four, is believed to contain 6,000 warriors and horses, some unearthed while others are still buried. Around each pit, tourists crowd to snap photos. Archaeologists, scattered throughout the museum's pits, can be found working meticulously to preserve their findings. The scientists cover their faces with masks and wear white gloves to protect their hands and the artifacts. They use tiny paintbrushes to carefully wipe the surfaces of the soldiers, horses and buildings discovered 35 years ago. On July 1, they were hard at work continuing the excavation of more of the 1,000 plus warriors already discovered. At the same time, however, their mission is to figure out why Emperor Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of the Qing dynasty, built the Terra Cotta Warriors in the first place. Worldwide archaeologists and historians surmise one theory of spirituality and another of loyalty to the emperor. Neither has yet been set in stone. "Conventional theory is that they are spiritual guardians to protect his tomb," said Professor Charles Haddad of Stony Brook University, regarding the Terra Cotta Warriors. "Archaeologists are digging for proof of this theory." According to this theory, Qin feared death. Once he died, he wanted his warriors to protect him from the dangers of the afterlife. Haddad and Professor Yoichi Shimatsu, a former investigative journalist and current environmental consultant, believe the loyalty theory clashes with the conventional version. "If he was a dictator that wanted immortality, how come there weren’t more important people?" Shimatsu asked rhetorically. "If you wanted to preserve the kingdom, why weren’t there more people?" Shimatsu pointed out that despite such a massive amount of warriors protecting Qin, other vital members of the emperor’s society, such as bureaucrats and scholars, should have been replicated as well. He added that Qin may not have built warriors for protection, but rather as a means to fundraise the building of his own tomb. Qin could have collected the money from military officers who paid to have a statue made in their likeness. "Qin had no real way to finance projects, so he looked to his officers who were wealthy with estates," Shimatsu said. "The officers may have paid the government to get it built." He said the fundraiser may be the reason each warrior has its own distinct representation. Even though the excavation may symbolize national pride for many Chinese, archaeologists and historians struggle to find the ultimate reason for the creation of the ancient statues. They hope to learn more by continuing the excavation. "It is painstaking work to preserve statues," Haddad said. "Archaeologists are just finding soldiers instead of the full representation of the emperor’s society." Twenty-one, With Calloused HandsYan Na, a worker at a silk carpet factory in Tianshui, China. Photo by Christine Vargas.
By Christine Vargas
Yan Na looked a lot younger than her co-workers at the Tianshui Xintian Silk Carpet Company. The ruggedness of her hands and face made her look older than her 21 years. Her fingers were spotted with blisters and sores.
She picked up the shuttle tool with her small right hand, her face concentrating on the blueprint of the carpet she was weaving. Her hands jabbed into the loom. The noise of the factory drowned out the sound of Yan Na’s batten procedure.
"When I started working here my hands used to hurt and my nails used to break constantly," she said. "But now I am used to it."
Her hands kept moving.
Her outfit was pieced together: a cerulean shirt and khaki Bermuda shorts, with white and black stripes by the knee. Her long black hair was up.
Yan Na, a native of Tianshui in China’s Gansu province, never had the opportunity to attend college or high school. She began working shortly after she finished junior high.
It’s been a year since she started working at the silk carpet factory. Depending on how many carpets she finishes, she said she can earn from 200 to 400 RMB a month (between 30 to 60 U.S. dollars). These days, Yan Na said she makes 100 RMB (about 15 U.S. dollars) in an average month, due to a lack of demand.
"Workers work hard," said Wang Xiau Chun, who is in charge of the factory’s finances and is one of its five shareholders. She has been in the weaving business since 1980 and has worked for the company for 10 years.
Most of the carpets made in the factory are kneeling carpets, for Muslim prayer. There is not an obvious type of buyer for these carpets in the community. Gansu’s population does not consist of many Muslims. Chinese government officials buy rugs and give them to their overseas Muslim business partners.
Yan Na said she works from 8:00 a.m. to noon. before she gets a chance to take a lunch break until 2:00 p.m. Many of the workers prefer not to go home for their break. Instead, they take a quick lunch and continue working.
"The ladies just earn a little wage for the labor, but the corporation earns a lot of money," Wang said. "The more you work the more you earn."
After the lunch break, the workers return to their work-station and often work until midnight.
"I wouldn’t be able to do this kind of job," Wang said.
At the age of 21, Yan Na spends most of her days in the factory sitting by her station, second to last by the wall.
When asked if she could do anything in the world she replied, "Working in the field of service for restaurants," her previous job.
"I liked doing it more then this because I got to talk to more people," Yan Na said. "I was happier." A Snag in the Silk RoadBy Lauren Cioffi and Micheline Maroni
The booming of diesel engines emanates for miles as construction trucks on a distant highway haul building materials to modernize western China. On the narrow Highway 312, these freight trucks come to a standstill as a traffic jam creates the first of many temporary halts, adding endless hours to a driver's daily grind.
In the distance, power lines stretching from the dry earth to the lush mountaintops taint the view of high peaks and vegetation.
Welcome to the fabled Silk Road.
The Silk Road, stretching over 4,000 miles, has served to transport goods to and from the West for over 2,000 years. While truck drivers still traverse this section of the ancient road, it's become a symbol of China's uneven development. Outdated dirt roads don't hold up to the modern vehicles and traffic volume.
The government has taken action to update this route. A new highway that runs parallel will be completed at the end of this year, said Tian Young, a 34-year-old truck driver from Huan Province.
Young, dressed in a red and black striped button-down shirt, transports machinery to help build houses and factories in western China. "I am very proud of it," he says.
Because of the continuous traffic on this road, drivers pack noodles and other snacks to prepare for the long haul, Young says. During the peak hours of traffic between late afternoon and early evening, peddlers mill about selling food and drinks.
"If I forget to bring food, I buy it on the street," Young says.
With no sign of traffic picking up, Young and his fellow travellers get out of their vehicles and amble down the street.
Throughout the evening, they look west for signs that the traffic is easing up.
A quarter of a mile ahead, inside a tunnel, Chen Qin Qing stands beneath orange lights, speaking to her husband as he sits in a blue truck used for transporting building goods. Together, they too are involved with the development of the West.
Qing, from Shanxi province, said that the trip to Gansu province normally takes 10 hours. Because of difficult driving conditions like narrow roads and hairpin turns, the tiresome journey can result in accidents and up to 12-hour delays, Qing says.
This puts the lives of drivers at risk and a snag in the road to the modernization of western China.
Josh Kamins contributed to this story.
July 07 China Texting Around the Limits of Its LanguageBy Erin McKinley
Whether shuffling among the hustle and bustle of New York City or drifting through the quiet confines of rural China, the art of text messaging has taken over.
Chinese kids, teens and adults alike are using the same technology to communicate with each other throughout their daily routines, but the immensely complex writing system here is throwing typical American texters for a loop.
The American form of text messaging is pretty straight forward: form a sentence and send it, an alluring alternative to a phone call. In a stereotypical American need for speed, avid texters rapidly developed a language for shortening sentences and words for convenience. LOL ("Laugh out loud," generally used to signify something is funny) and G2G ("Got to go," for when a conversation needs to end) are text messaging staples.
China faces a more complicated situation. The written Chinese language has over ten thousand characters, each one a picture representing a thing or an idea. While these characters are a part of a diverse culture and form a unique language, it makes text messaging a nearly impossible feat on an ordinary cell phone. This is where pinyin comes in handy.
According to Pinyin.info, the language is the romanization of Mandarin Chinese. Basically, the writer would use western letters and phonetics to spell traditional Chinese words. By typing the first few western letters of a word, a group of corresponding Chinese characters will appear on the screen for the texter to choose.
"It is very useful," said 21-year-old Chengchun Guo, a sophomore at Tsinghua University, "I send at least 50 [text messages] a day."
China and the United States have common ground in unexpected places. Something as trivial as a text message can be unifying bond between two groups of students a world away from each other.
Xi'an: A Comeback Centuries in the MakingBy Eric Scaturro
People flood the streets of ancient Xi’an, many of who stop to view the beautiful architecture of the city’s historic Bell Tower – only to quickly notice the McDonald’s just a few feet away.
The city of Xi’an, one of the four great ancient capitals of China, now displays a unique blend of ancient charm and western modernization, and has gone through intense gentrification.
"In less than ten years, the GDP and average income has more than tripled," said Yoichi Shimatsu, a consultant with Above and Beyond Ltd.
The city, which is still surrounded by the walls that used to protect it centuries ago, features a myriad of architecture that reflects the stylings of the Qin and Tang Dynasties. The buildings preserve an ancient feel that is synonymous with the admired Chinese culture, while clashing with the new gentrified feel of the city.
The gentrification can be attributed to a pouring in of capitol from investors in Hong Kong. The Western Development Plan has sent tens of billions of dollars to western China in order to modernize the area.
The result is a newly formed middle class with a huge demand for foreign cars and fast food – a combination of new and old.
"The last three years have had a massive explosion of global brands," Shimatsu said.
McDonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Prada and Dairy Queen are just some of the places a westerner could feel at home, even when surrounded by the unfamiliar.
Xi’an, the starting point of the Silk Road, impacted the global economy for hundreds of years, and it appears it will continue to do so whether on camel or luxury car.
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